While we prefer that all rappels run smoothly, and all climbs are classics, and all weather is perfect…sometimes things don’t go according to plan.

In this article we cover some skills that every climber should have in their back pocket for those bad days when things seem to stack up against you.

• What do I do if I drop my belay or rappel device? (Either you or your partner)?

• Using three locking carabiners (or six non-locking) you can create a carabiner brake for rappelling. These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop.

• Using a “rescue-spider” type rappel extension you can rappel two people off of one device (this assumes that your partner still has a rappel device), we call this a tandem rappel. These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop.

• You could choose to lower your partner and then have one person rappel (this assumes that you still have one belay device between you and your partner). These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop.

• What do you do if you rappel past the anchor?

• If rappelling with an extended “guide” style device, and you’re rappelling in “high-friction” mode, then all you’ve got to do is rotate the device to clip the guide loop into your belay loop, then ascend. (For this convenience, it’s advisable that the 1st person to rappel the route uses a guide device in high friction mode. After that, all others in the party can use standard rappel devices in low friction mode — since they only need to rappel down the that 1st person).These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop.

• If your device is NOT a guide style device, and/or you are not in high friction mode, then more tools/techniques are needed. You’ll want to place a Prussik friction hitch on the rope above the device, which will act as a progress capture as you ascend the rope. These skills are taught in our L1 Anchor and Rescue Worskhop.

• How do you rappel with an injured partner?

• If conscious, but injured and unable to manage their own device, a tandem rappel is likely sufficient. These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop.

• If unconscious, or more severely injured, then you’ll need a tandem rappel in combination with a chest harness to keep them from tilting upside down. These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop.

• How do I rappel past a damaged, or core shot, section of rope (passing knots)?

• Using a cordellete or 280cm sling, you’ll need to secure a load-releasable weight transfer hitch (the Munter-Mule) to the rappel strands above the rappel device. Then one-by-one transfer the device and 3rd hand back up below the knots. Then release the weight transfer hitch, until you’re fully loaded onto the device again (this time below the knot). These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop.

• What’s the best techniques when Pulling rappel ropes?

• As a general rule, pulling slow and steady is preferred over pulling quickly. If you pull too quickly you risk whipping the rope up into the rappel rings and having the end of the rope tie itself into a knot.

Please note, climbing and rappelling are dangerous acticivites, and this article is not meant to be a replacement for professional training. You should look to trained professionals to teach each of these highly relevant and technical skills.