11 places in the Bay Area and beyond where you can walk up to set an anchor for toprope rock climbing
You’ve toproped in the gym and now you’re itching to practice your skills outdoors. But where to get started?
First, make sure you’ve got the necessary training to safely set up rock climbs for you and your friends outdoors.
Here’s a great resource of rock climbing training courses designed to make you self sufficient outside of the gym!
Many outdoor crags can be intimidating for beginner climbers, especially if you’re not yet super confident on your lead climbing skills. Luckily, the Greater Bay Area has plenty of beginner-friendly spots where you can walk up to build toprope anchors! Check out our list of recommended areas below. Adding to accessibility, all of the crags listed in San Francisco, Cragmont & Remillard Parks in the East Bay, Ring Mountain in the North Bay, and Pacifica in the South Bay are also accessible by public transit.
San Francisco City
Within the city there are 3 crags to climb at, of these 2 have options to walk-up and set an anchor. Please note though that crags within the city are small, there's only 1-3 routes at each spot. On the bright side, because there's only a small selection of routes at each spot and folks generally prefer going further afield, these crags are ironicall often less crowded.
Cliffhouse Boulders
Yes... technically, most guidebooks will refer to these as boulder problems. But for boulders, they'd definitely be considered highball problems, that's why it's nice that there are bolts at the top, easily accessible by multiple paths (including coming down from the paved trail that connects the old Cliffhouse Restaurant and the camera obscura)! Please note, the bolts are set quite inward from the face of the wall, a longer anchor set-up would be more ideal. Also be mindful of the tides if you're planning to come! Mountain Project profile here.
Beaver Street Wall
This climbing wall is at the northern edge of Corona Heights Park. It's a very unique geological formation called a slickenside, and this wall is one of the world's largest examples! For climbers, that means the face is very polished and smooth. Were it not for the gigantic crack where all 3 routes meetup halfway up from the base, it would be practically unsurmountable! (Due to the special geological importance of this rock, it should only be toproped.)
To get to the anchor site, you actually need to walk up Corona Heights Park, and follow the fence until you're right above the wall, then set up your anchor on the fence posts (possibly hopping the fence); a longer set-up is ideal to clear the crack a bit.
While you're up at the park, don't forget to take in the views of San Francisco which are truly breathtaking! Mountain Project profile here.
East Bay
Cragmont Park
One of the most accessible places in the Bay Area to toprope outdoors! Cragmont offers around a dozen routes ranging from grades 5.6 to 5.12, most of which are topropeable. As you enter the park, you’ll see a trail going down towards the left side where you can access the routes. To set up toprope anchors without leading, walk across the uphill border of the park until you see a cliff. Step over the stone fence and you’ll see bolted anchors on the ledge that you can walk up to. Cragmont Park is in a residential neighborhood so please be mindful of noise and trash when you are climbing in this area! Mountain Project profile here.
Remillard Park
Just a short walk up the road from Cragmont, Remillard Park in Berkeley is another great spot to toprope outdoors in the Bay, especially when Cragmont is crowded. The rock should be immediately visible as you enter the park. To set up anchors, scramble from the left side of the rock to the top, where you will see a metal pole and two bolted anchors. If you are using the pole as an anchor, bring long slings with you (20-24’) as the edge is sharp and not particularly steep. The bolts are closer to the edge. This area is prone to slippery moss and poison oak so make sure to exercise caution and watch where you place your hands! Mountain Project profile here.
South Bay
Pacifica
There's a short 1 mile paved hike that meanders and connects San Pedro Beach and Rockaway Beach in Pacifica. At the part of the hike where the trail zig zags (closer to Rockaway Beach), if you wander off trail and head toward the water, you'll see the crags with bolts. There are few routes here so it's not very crowded, and the crag is super featured and the routes are very beginner friendly. Plus what could be better than topping off your day with a swim in the brisk water or a nice picnic on the beach as the sun sets? Mountain Project profile here.
Castle Rock Area
Tucked away in the picturesque Santa Cruz mountains, Castle Rock State Park is one of the biggest climbing regions in the Bay Area with hundreds of toprope, sport, trad and bouldering problems. For beginners, we recommend checking out Indian Rock in Sanborn Park, which is just a few minutes up the road from the main Castle Rock parking area. The crag is a short 5-minute approach from the road. On the north face, you’ll see bolted anchors on a ledge that can easily be walked up to. There are also bolted anchors on the south face that are accessible without leading but require some amount of scrambling.
Other areas of Castle Rock worth exploring for beginner-friendly toproping are the Waterfall Cliffs, the Muffins, Goat Rock and Lime Disease Rock. While most of these routes have bolted anchors you can use to toprope, accessing them without leading will involve either scrambling at the ~5.0 range or lowering yourself using a natural anchor to a tree.
The sandstone rock at Castle Rock is fascinating to gaze at and even more fun to climb but please note that this rock is delicate. Do not climb here during or immediately after it rains. Most guidebooks recommend waiting at least three days after rain to climb sandstone. Mountain project profile here
North Bay
Mount Tamalpais
Even though Mount Tam is primarily known for bouldering, there are a handful of fun routes with big, gym-like holds that you can toprope on the Southern and Northern Formation. As far as we know, there are no bolted anchors on the top, so you will need to know how to establish natural anchors. Make sure to bring plenty of webbing and long slings that you can sling around horns and boulders for anchors! Mountain Project profile here.
Ring Mountain
This is serious climbing with a view! The whole area is a spectacular lookout over the greater Bay Area. On a clear day, you can see the city of San Francisco, the Bay Bridge, the East Bay hills, and more! For rope climbing, you're looking for Split Rock... the crag with a huge split down the middle. The more daring may choose to approach these as highball (~25ft, 7.6m) boulders, or you can just walk up the slope on the other side and set up a rope! Note that there aren't really bolts here, you'll need to use trad gear or features (there are some holes drilled into the rock) to build an anchor. Mountain project profile here
Mickey's Beach
As a whole, Mickey's Beach isn't known for being very beginner friendly, so there's only 2 top rope routes and only 1 (Stemmer) has bolts that are accessible by walk-up. You'll find these on the top of the Main Rock by walking up the narrow ledge to the left. However, mix your time on rope with some bouldering, some beach hang time, and you've got yourself a great day! Mountain Project profile here
Beyond the Bay Area
Once you move out of the Bay, there are tons of crags (the blessings of living in California!) to explore, these are just two spots we've particularly enjoyed.
Sierra Foothills > Cosumnes River Gorge
Crack climbing with a view! The routes here are spread across short granite cliffs overlooking the scenic Cosumnes river. Hike from the parking lot to Buck’s Bar Dome and you’ll see plenty of cracks of different widths you can toprope. There are bolted anchors near Dinkum Wall that can be walked up to. If you continue walking on the edge of the trail, you’ll see other bolted anchors to a variety of routes that can be accessed without leading. These bolts are fairly far down a steep drop-off, so we recommend rappelling or lowering yourself from a tree when setting up your toprope anchor. Mountain Project profile here.
Lake Tahoe Area > South Lake > Eagle Creek Canyon > 90 foot wall
It's 90 feet tall, surprise! There's a great selection of routes here from 5.6 to 5.11b, which makes it especially a good spot for learning and mock-leading on trad. Be aware that it can get very crowded here, and you'll definitely need to watch for fire safety in the wildfire season. The walk-up to the anchors at the top is on the left side (if you're facing the wall). Mountain Project profile here.
This post assumes you have the appropriate knowledge to climb outdoors, including setting up anchors. We always recommend learning before you get to the crag (e.g., via a course, like those offered by SAANO Adventures) and going with more experienced partners as well.
About the authors
James is the owner of Last Minute Gear, the only outdoor gear shop where folks can buy, rent, or borrow gear. They are the only place in the Bay Area that rents a wide selection of crash pads, climbing shoes (from neutral to aggressive), guide books, chalk, and brushes, in addition to ultralight backpacking or high end ski gear. Per industry standard, note that weight-bearing equipment (e.g., harnesses, rope, belay devices, carabiners) is only available to buy.
Jini is the founder of Headlamp, a platform to discover and book female+ instructors outdoors. She is a SAANO Anchor and Rescue grad who loves discovering new spots in the Bay Area where she can climb outdoors and practice her anchor-building skills!