Rappelling off the ends of the rope
Close the system: Using a properly tied barrel knot to close the system can prevent tragedy.
Rappelling past the anchors
The need to re-ascend the rope: If rappelling with an extended “guide” style device, and you’re rappelling in “high-friction” mode, then you’ve got the option to rotate the device and clip the guide loop into your belay loop, then ascend. (For this convenience, it’s advisable that the 1st person to rappel the route uses a guide device in high friction mode. After that, all others in the party can use standard rappel devices in low friction mode — since they only need to rappel down to that 1st person). These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop and the Multi-Pitch Transitions Workshop.
If your device is NOT a guide style device, and/or you are NOT in high friction mode, then more tools/techniques are needed. You’ll need to place a prussik hitch (progress capture) above the rappel device and ascend upwards. These skills are taught in our L1 Anchor and Rescue Worskhop.
The third-hand back-up
Use an AutoBlock (also know as a French Prussik) rather than a Prussik or Kleimheist. The AutoBlock can be pushed down after engaging, whereas the Prussik and Kleimheist are often considered too aggressive and can be difficult/impossible to release under load, and will require more skills/techniques to release them. These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop and the Multi-Pitch Transitions Workshop.
The third hand back-up typically is most effective if the rappel is extended.
Extending the device away from your harness.
keep it within arms length but far enough away to make the 3rd-hand back up effective (without interference from the device). These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop and the Multi-Pitch Transitions Workshop.
Extension options.
Locker Draw
Basket hitch double length sling with a figure-8 knot
Use a P.A.S.
Requirements/limits of the fireman’s belay
The person providing the fireman’s belay needs to be able to see the person rappelling in order to anticipate and quickly react to/catch a fall/slip. If the person rappelling is out of sight (around a corner, over a roof, etc.) then the fireman’s belay is not recommended.
The person providing the fireman’s belay must be actively watching and ready to react to/catch a fall/slip. That is, they cannot be distracted with rope management, snacking, gear organization, etc. they must be fully involved in providing the fireman’s belay. These skills are taught in our L2 Advanced Rescue and Advanced Rappelling Workshop and the Multi-Pitch Transitions Workshop.
Simul-Rappelling do’s and don’t
We don’t teach simul-rappelling in our workshops, but can cover the skills in private training. Please note that simul rappelling is one of the most dangerous forms of rappelling and is only recommended for the most skilled climbers with a high attention to detail.
DO: tie-knots (barrel knots) at the end of your rappel ropes.
DO: rappel with a device like a gri-gri, or use a high-friction device.
DO: use a third-hand back-up (the auto block) with an extended rappel device.
DO: use a leather glove to control the brake strand (severe rope burns can occur without them).
DO: consider tethering yourself to your “simul” partner so that you can’t get too far ahead/behind them.
DON’T: forget to tie knots at the rope ends.
DON’T: un-weight the rope until your partner is safely on the ground or attached to the anchor with you.
Please note, climbing and rappelling are dangerous acticivites, and this article is not meant to be a replacement for professional training. You should look to trained professionals to teach each of these highly relevant and technical skills.