When it comes to traditional climbing gear, you’re going to have a lot of brands and choices to choose from. If I was starting over with a brand new rack, here’s what I would purchase.
Black Diamond Z4 Camalots for sizes 0-0.75.
I like these cams due to their new “RigidFlex” stems. This new design keeps them super flexible when a fall is taken, but stiffens them up when the trigger is engaged for easier placement and removal from the rock.
I like this version of the camalot family of cams because its more narrow than the C4’s and the Ultra-Light cams (it’s going to fit in more locations).
I like that the Black Diamond Cams are dual axel, which makes them very durable/strong, and has the added benefit of being able to hold a fall passively.
I like this cam because the Black Diamond cam size/color scheme is very well known in the climbing community. You could partner up with pretty much any climber around the world and they would likely know the size of the cam based on the color.
Link for more information on these Z4 cams.
Black Diamond C4 UltraLight for sizes 1-3.
I like that these cams are 25% lighter in weight than the original C4 cams.
I like that the Black Diamond Cams are dual axel, which makes them very durable/strong, and has the added benefit of being able to hold a fall passively.
I like this cam because the Black Diamond cam size/color scheme is very well known in the climbing community. You could partner up with pretty much any climber around the world and they would likely know the size of the cam based on the color.
Link for more information on these C4 Ultralight cams.
Black Diamond C4 for sizes 4-8.
I like that these cams are 10% lighter in weight than the original C4 cams.
I like that these cams have a wire that acts as a “trigger keeper” to keep the cam compressed when racked on your harness. This makes it less intrusive while climbing.
I like that the Black Diamond Cams are dual axel, which makes them very durable/strong, and has the added benefit of being able to hold a fall passively.
I like this cam because the Black Diamond cam size/color scheme is very well known in the climbing community. You could partner up with pretty much any climber around the world and they would likely know the size of the cam based on the color.
Link for more information on these C4 cams.
DMM Wallnut Stoppers (nuts).
I like these stoppers due to their grooved faces which help them seat better in cracks.
I like that DMM uses different allow for the various sizes, making the “smaller wallnuts from a harder allow to prevent shearing, while the larger sizes are softer so they can bite into placements”.
I like that these stoppers have wires that make them stiff enough for overhead placements, but are flexible enough to bend in a fall.
Link for more information on these Wallnut stoppers.
DMM Alloy Offset Stoppers (nuts).
I like these stoppers due to their grooved faces which help them seat better in cracks.
I like their taper that protects irregular and flared cracks.
I like their high 12kn strength rating.
I like that these stoppers have wires that are recessed to reduce wear.
Link for more information on these Alloy Offset Stoppers.
metolius torque STOPPER/NUT REMOVAL TOOL.
I like the softened end so that I don’t injure my palm/hand when I tap on the end of it.
I like that its heavier duty so that I can use some leverage with it (the ultra light ones tend to bend/break.
I like the built in wrenches that not only lighten the design, but can be used to tighten loose bolts on a climb.
Link for more information on the Metolius Torque Nut Tool.
Black Diamond 10mm Dynex Alpine Draws (slings/runners).
I like how light weight and low-profile (compared to the 14mm) these sewn Dynex runners are.
They are easy to tie knots into, and relatively easy to untie knots (compared to other brands).
For rock protection I carry (qty 6-10) 60cm dynex slings, and (qty 2-4) 120cm dynex slings.
For multi-pitch anchor building I carry (qty 2) 180cm dynex slings, or (qty 2) 240cm dynex slings.
Link for more information on these 10mm Dynex Slings/Runners.
Petzl Dual Connect Adjust Personal Anchor System (P.A.S.).
I like this design of a P.A.S. when I know that I’ll be doing multiple rappels and I want added comfort during the transitions.
The double lanyard system allows me to extend my device on the fixed length side, while using the adjustable lanyard to connect/adjust my positioning at the anchor transitions.
I like that the adjustment can be done one handed.
Link for more information on the Dual Connect Adjust.
Petzl Gri-Gri for belaying from above (single rope applications).
I like the Gri-Gri for it’s smooth flow of rope.
I like the Gri-Gri for how dependable the assisted braking mechanism is.
I like the Gri-Gri for it’s simplicity when transition to a lower (whether it’s weighted or unweighted).
I like that the Gri-Gri is a common use tool, and most climbers are familiar with its use and function.
Link for more information on the Gri-Gri belay device.
Edelrid Giga Jul for lead belaying (single or double rope applications).
I like the Giga Jul for lead belays because the rope flows smoothly like a standard tube device, but it offers an assisted brake (like the Gri-Gri does).
As a leader, I prefer that my belayer use this tool as they are less likely to “short rope” me that they are with a Gri-Gri (short roping the leader is a common problem with the Gri-Gri).
I like that you can rappel with this device with a built in back up, or without that built in back up (two modes).
Link for more information on the Giga Jul belay device.
KONG Gi-Gi plate style belay device for Three-Person Rope Teams.
I like how low profile this device is (it hangs perfectly flat to the harness while climbing).
I like how multi-purpose it is
can be used with single, double and twin ropes.
can be used to belay one or two followers.
can be used for rappelling (single or double-strand).
I like the ridge in the center of the plate that allows for two followers to be belayed smoothly, separately. That is, “in the case of a fall, only the rope subjected to the fall blocks, leaving the other free to slide”.
Link for more information on the Gi-Gi plate device.
BEAL Jammy for friction hitches.
I like the 50cm length.
I like that the diameter is 5.5mm which allows it to effectively grip a variety of rope diameters.
I like the aramid core (very strong) and polyamide sheath (high heat durability).
Link for more information on the Jammy friction hitch.
Please note, climbing and rappelling are dangerous acticivites, and this article is not meant to be a replacement for professional training. You should look to trained professionals to teach each of these highly relevant and technical skills.