PRE-REQUISITES
In this class we will build on the knowledge you gained in your Level I Rock Climbing Anchors and Rescue Workshop (a prerequisite for this course).
The Level I Rock Climbing Anchor Building and Rescue Workshop ensures that anyone taking this course has at least the same foundational knowledge of knots, anchors, and basic rescue systems.
Our only other requirement is that you come prepared to THINK.
UPON YOUR ARRIVAL
As soon as you arrive, please put your harness on, and get your equipment (carabiners, slings, belay devices, etc.) racked onto your gear loops.
KNOTS and HITCHES
We’ll be adding a few knots and hitches to your repertoire for this workshop.
The Clove Hitch has three common forms: (1) The “air clove”, which you use in the ‘Anchor and Rescue’ workshop, is used within another system. In this case it’s used to back up our load releasable Munter Hitch. (2) The “one-handed clove”, new for this workshop, will be used to secure the leader when they arrive at the anchor via their climbing rope (instead of using a P.A.S.). One hand will be required to hold on the anchor so that the climber doesn’t fall, while the other hand is busy tying the “one-handed clove”. (3) The “two-handed clove”, also new for this workshop, will be used for securing the second (follower) to the anchor when they arrive.
The Auto-Block is a bi-directional friction hitch that is used as a “3rd hand” back-up for rappelling, or lowering a climber. Often referred to as a “hand-of-god” back-up, think of using this anytime that letting go of the rope would result in catastrophe for you or your partner. For example, when rappelling, if you let go of the rope you would free-fall to the ground. In this situation, the “3rd hand” is intended to grab the brake strand and keep you from free-falling.
EQUIPMENT & GEAR PREPARATION
To bring a Personal Anchor System (P.A.S.) or not to bring a P.A.S.? In short, you won’t need one, but you’re welcome to bring one if you already own one and want to try and integrate it into the training. However, in these workshops we generally teach you to use the simplest and most commonly available tools such as the climbing rope and slings.
Please review the required equipment list and ensure that you’ve got all the required items. Or, if you don’t have the required items, simply rent an equipment kit from SAANO, and I’ll have it prepped and ready for you when you arrive at the workshop.
A climbing harness is mandatory. Climbing shoes aren’t necessary as we’ll be training in a ground school environment. Helmets are advised for some of the drills but are optional as we’re not physically climbing.
CONTENT & SKILLS
Anchor Prep: It’s helpful if you take some time practicing your two piece anchors (i.e., the Quad Anchor) from the Pre-Requisite Anchor and Rescue Workshop.
Rappelling: Standard rappel set ups with extensions and 3rd-hand back-ups. We’ll also discuss the fireman’s belay in place of the 3rd-hand, and when it’s appropriate.
Improvised rappel devices: oops! You or your partner dropped their rappel device! You’ll learn how to deal with it safely.
Pre-Rigging Rappels: We’ll cover techniques for pre-rigging you and your partner(s), and discuss when each technique is appropriate (terrain dependant, experience dependant)
Cleaning anchors: whether transitioning to a lower, or to a rappel, we’ll cover simply transitions using just the climbing rope as your tether.
Defeating devices: learning to transition a belay device from ascending to descending in the middle of a belay can be a crucial skill if your partner has taken a fall and needs to be lowered. We’ll cover these skills using a variety of belay devices, and methods of belay.
Rope management: a critical component to multi-pitch climbing is the ability to manage the rope efficiently. We’ll cover the skills needed to manage ropes in a variety of terrain, as well as how most efficiently to manage the rope for swinging leads, or leading in blocks.
Multi-Pitch Transitions: by the end of the day each student will be given the opportunity to go through two pitches of transitions from up to down, while both leading and following.
RELEVANT WORKSHOP: MULTI-PITCH TRANSITIONS AND TECHNIQUES