PRE-REQUISITES
In this class we will build on the knowledge you gained in your Level I Rock Climbing Anchors and Rescue Workshop (a prerequisite for this course).
The Level I Rock Climbing Anchor Building and Rescue Workshop ensures that anyone taking this course has at least the same foundational knowledge of knots, anchors, and basic rescue systems.
Our only other requirement is that you come prepared to THINK.
UPON YOUR ARRIVAL
As soon as you arrive, please put your harness on, and get your equipment (carabiners, slings, belay devices, etc.) racked onto your gear loops.
KNOTS and HITCHES
We’ll be adding a few knots and hitches to your repertoire for this workshop.
The Munter Hitch will be used a lot. The Munter is a ‘load releasable hitch’, that serves as a transitional tool when using skills such as passing knots on rappel, or passing knots while lowering a climber off of a route. The Munter is commonly thought of as an alternative belay tool, however it creates a nasty twist in the rope, and excessively wears on both the carabiner and the climbing rope.
The Clove Hitch has three common forms: (1) The “air clove”, which you use in the ‘Anchor and Rescue’ workshop, is used within another system. In this case it’s used to back up our load releasable Munter Hitch. (2) The “one-handed clove”, new for this workshop, will be used to secure the leader when they arrive at the anchor via their climbing rope (instead of using a P.A.S.). One hand will be required to hold on the anchor so that the climber doesn’t fall, while the other hand is busy tying the “one-handed clove”. (3) The “two-handed clove”, also new for this workshop, will be used for securing the second (follower) to the anchor when they arrive.
The Auto-Block is a bi-directional friction hitch that is used as a “3rd hand” back-up for rappelling, or lowering a climber. Often referred to as a “hand-of-god” back-up, think of using this anytime that letting go of the rope would result in catastrophe for you or your partner. For example, when rappelling, if you let go of the rope you would free-fall to the ground. In this situation, the “3rd hand” is intended to grab the brake strand and keep you from free-falling.
The Kleimheist is a one-directional friction hitch that is slightly less aggressive (how quickly it grabs and holds the rope) than a Prussik friction hitch, but slightly more aggressive than the Auto-Block friction hitch. Similar to the Prussik, when fully loaded/weighted it cannot be moved up or down the rope, you must un-weight the hitch prior to being able to adjust its positioning.
EQUIPMENT & GEAR PREPARATION
To bring a Personal Anchor System (P.A.S.) or not to bring a P.A.S.? In short, you won’t need one, but you’re welcome to bring one if you already own one and want to try and integrate it into the training. However, in these workshops we generally teach you to use the simplest and most commonly available tools such as the climbing rope and slings.
Please review the required equipment list and ensure that you’ve got all the required items. Or, if you don’t have the required items, simply rent an equipment kit from SAANO, and I’ll have it prepped and ready for you when you arrive at the workshop.
A climbing harness is mandatory. Climbing shoes aren’t necessary as we’ll be training in a ground school environment. Helmets are advised for some of the drills but are optional as we’re not physically climbing
CONTENT & SKILLS
Rappelling: Standard rappel set ups with extensions and 3rd-hand back-ups. We’ll also discuss the fireman’s belay in place of the 3rd-hand, and when it’s appropriate.
Improvised rappel devices: oops! You or your partner dropped their rappel device! You’ll learn how to deal with it safely.
Pre-Rigging Rappels: We’ll cover techniques for pre-rigging you and your partner(s), and discuss when each technique is appropriate (terrain dependant, experience dependant)
Rappelling with an injured/unconcious climbing partner. How to keep them from inverting during the rappel, how to keep them close to you (so that you can monitor and provide first-aid to them if necessary during the rappel) but out of the way of critical movement and device controls.
Passing knots while rappelling: we’ll show you how to effectively pass a knot while rappelling. Whether it’s due to a core-shot (damaged) section of rope, or perhaps you’ve tied two different length ropes together to get down a rock face, and now the joining knot is part way down the rappel. We’ll cover the skills needed to achieve this safely.
Passing knots while lowering someone: we’ll show you how to effectively pass a knot while lowering a climber. Again, this could be due to a damaged section of rope that has been isolated with a knot, or after joining two ropes together for an extended lower.
Leverage systems: If your partner is stuck on a move and cannot climb through it, or they’re injured and physically can’t climb up any more. Sometimes it’s better to leverage/haul them up to you, than it is to lower them down.